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Gozo travel guide: All you need to know about the island

Gozo is a lesser-known destination in Malta and is the second-largest of the Maltese islands.

With a population of around 34,000 or so inhabitants, yet covering an area of 67 km² (26 square miles), Gozo is a much quieter place to be. In fact, many people refer to Gozo as “what Malta used to be like”: A rural area where time just seems to pass a little slower than in most other places.

In this article, I’ll introduce you to Gozo and help you decide whether to stay there, whether just to visit, how to do your sightseeing, where to sample local food and much more!

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Sitting on the dock of the bay, watching the Gozo ferry as it sails away is strangely comforting. As you board the vessel you feel like you’ve shed an enormous weight off your shoulders, leaving the stress of everyday behind you.

Gozo is magical, and the magic starts when you arrive at Mġarr Harbour, with its quiet marina and church sitting on the hilltop overlooking the harbour.

From personal experience, every single time I make the crossing to Gozo there’s an instant sense of peace and zen. And I’m not even a very spiritual person! 😉

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Quick Facts on Gozo

  • Around 34,000 Inhabitants
  • Small island covering just 67 km² (26 square miles)
  • Second largest of the three inhabited Maltese islands
  • Known for a few popular sites like the Dwejra inland sea, the Citadel in Victoria (a small bastion city built atop one of the hills in Gozo with a rich historical background) and the Ġgantija Megalithic temples.
  • A number of big-budget film productions were shot in Malta and Gozo. In the first series of Game of Thrones, the Azure Window (a natural rock formation which unfortunately collapsed in 2017) featured in the backdrop of some of the more memorable scenes.
  • Said to have been the home of the mythological Calypso, the nymph from Homer’s Odyssey.

How to get to Gozo from Malta

There’s no direct road connection to Gozo (yet – although plans have been drafted for an underwater tunnel to be constructed), so you’ll need to get to Gozo over water.

There are three options to do so (and all get you to Mġarr Harbour at the southeastern side of Gozo):

1) Gozo Channel Ferry

You can catch the main Gozo ferry (which transports both foot passengers as well as vehicles) to make the crossing. The ferry departs from Ċirkewwa (at the Northernmost tip of main island Malta) at frequent intervals, with trips that continue even throughout the night.

Ċirkewwa is serviced by a number of bus routes and is easy to reach from major tourist hotspots like Sliema, St. Julian’s and Buġibba/Qawra/St. Paul’s Bay.

The Gozo ferry crossing itself

Once you’re onboard the Gozo ferry, head up to the topmost deck to enjoy some exquisite views of the islands. Midway between Malta and Gozo, if you look toward your right, you will catch a glimpse of Comino – a tiny island with one of the most sought-after swimming zones of the archipelago – the Blue Lagoon.

The tower on top of the cliff stands out, and if like me you’re a movie buff you’ll recognise it as the prison where the count of Montecristo was kept in the 2002 version of Alexandre Dumas novel.

Once you leave Comino behind, Ta’ Ċenċ Cliffs loom into view, as the ferry heads for Mġarr Harbour. If you’re lucky enough, you might even spot dolphins following the trail left by the vessel.

Next, the ferry docks and lowers the ramps to set the vehicles in its belly free. At the same time, foot passengers disembark via the passenger terminal. Many Maltese will cross over to Gozo just to stop at one of the cosy restaurants in the harbour, while others continue their journey inland.

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Getting to the Ċirkewwa ferry from the airport

If you’re considering making Gozo your main holiday destination, there is a direct bus connection (route X1) that take you right up to Ċirkewwa from the airport. Right from outside the arrivals terminal you can find the bus terminus.

Route X1 usually departs every 45 minutes. There’s no night service though, so the earliest trip departs at around 5.20 am, while the last bus leaves the terminal at 10.55 pm. Taking potential traffic into account, it’s not exactly a short trip. If you’re unlucky it could take up to 1.5 hours. The good news is the price: A ticket costs just €2 per person for a single trip (summer rate).

Alternatively, a taxi ride will set you back around €45. Depending on the time of day it’s usually a 45-min trip.

Get more detailed info here: How to get from Malta Airport to Gozo

2) Gozo ferries from Valletta

Using one of two fast ferry services offered by Gozo Fast Ferries and Virtu Gozo Ferries is another easy option to get to Gozo. These ferry trips take under 45 minutes and are a good option if you don’t want to take a car to Gozo and you’re staying in or near Valletta.

Since the vessels used are smaller, however, the ride can be a little rough and trips are more likely to be cancelled than with the much larger Gozo Channel ferries.

If you’re looking at this option for travelling from the airport, you’re best off taking a taxi at around €16-18 for a one-way trip to the ferry dock on the East-facing side of Valletta.

3) Hop-on-hop-off ferry

Using iSeeMalta’s hop-on-hop-off ferry you can get to Gozo and use their buses to explore the island as well. Have a look at their Gozo Pass if you’re interested in their bus and ferry hop-on-hop-off combo. Very convenient, especially if you’re staying in Sliema, St. Julian’s and Buġibba/Qawra/St. Paul’s Bay (since this ferry stops in Sliema and Buġibba).

Looking for tours and excursions in Malta and Gozo?

Get my recommendations on the best day trips, boat trips, excursions and activities and book in advance!

View and book tours here
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Why should you visit Gozo?

Although tiny, the island has a lot to offer to the visiting tourist:

  1. For starters, it is much quieter than Malta, less urbanised, and thus able to provide a more relaxing experience. If you’re visiting during the winter season, you’ll see a greener island than Malta. This is because Malta’s sister island is less industrialised, leaving the countryside intact.
  2. Another reason to pay a visit is the beaches and clear waters that offer swimmers and divers something to remember.
  3. If you’re not visiting in Summer and it’s too cold for a dip, the long walks in the countryside will be equally pleasing – There are some incredible sights on offer all year round, irrespective of the weather in Gozo.
  4. The island has a fair bit of history to tell, having played its part in many important historic events.
  5. Finally, make the crossing for some of the best food on the islands, especially traditional local cuisine.
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Things to do in Gozo

Gozo is a pretty small island but there’s enough to see, taste and do to fill an easy-paced week’s itinerary. These are a few suggestions to start with, but you can find a bigger list of itinerary ideas here: Things to do in Gozo.

Day trips and tours

Taking a day tour or excursion around Gozo can be a great way to explore the highlights that Gozo has to offer if you’re not actually staying there (and then be tempted to visit again for a proper stay ?). These are a few options to consider:

More ideas here: Top 10 Gozo Day Trips, Tours and Excursions

Sampling the local food

If you’d like to get a taste of a few local flavours, with fresh produce including oil, tomato paste, cheese, a variety of wines from locally grown grapes and more, pay a visit to Ta’ Mena Estate, on the winding road between Victoria and Marsalforn. They organise guided tours and food-tasting sessions, which need to be booked in advance. You can find more details on their website.

Curious about locally brewed craft beer? Visit Lord Chambray beer brewery. Their taproom is open from Mon-Sat between 2 pm and 6 pm, and you can book a tasting tour from their website.

Points of interest

All roads in Gozo lead to the Citadel in Rabat (also known as Victoria) – a beautiful (but small) fortified town that has witnessed many historical moments and stood the test of time in the most handsome way. When or who originally built this fortress isn’t exactly known, but we do know that they were constructed in the 15th century. Research shows that settlements have been present on the same hill since the Neolithic period. That’s no surprise since it’s one of the most central hilltops on the island with commanding views in all directions.

Archaeologists are certain that the site was fortified during the Bronze Age, around 1500 BC. The Phoenicians and the Romans added their share of temples and buildings. The Aragonese period saw the Citadel take the shape we know today, with improvements carried out by the order of the Knights between 1599 and 1603 to withstand and provide shelter against Ottoman incursions.

For this reason, until 1637, the entire population of Gozo was required by law to spend the night within the Citadel for their own safety.

Round and About the Citadel

The view from the bastions is not simply breathtaking – it is incomparable to any other on the islands. Within its walls, the Citadel holds many precious gems, such as the little old graffiti ridden-prison where, in 1538, a young La Vallette was held here for four months after attacking another man. There are also museums and old medieval houses open to the public, as well as a couple of nice restaurants specialising in traditional Gozitan cuisine.

Outside the Citadel, you’ll find the busiest city on the island: Rabat. Also known as Victoria, it is the capital city of Gozo and the only place on the tiny island where you can find a concentration of shops. Buying pastizzi and eating them in the main square (called ‘It-Tokk’) is a tradition many locals follow religiously. And you should try it too.

Churches and shrines

Gozo is not shy of its fervent Christian roots, with cathedrals, churches and chapels around every corner. Some of these Christian temples are fine examples of architecture, ranging from seventeenth-century baroque to twentieth-century neoclassical. Although all of them are beautiful in construction and in décor, three of these are surely worth mentioning (and visiting):

  • The Cittadella Cathedral was designed by Lorenzo Gafà and built between 1697 and 1711 in baroque style.
  • The onyx covered Żebbuġ church, dedicated to the Assumption. It is also the second oldest consecrated church in Gozo.
  • The Shrine of the Blessed Virgin of Ta’ Pinu, close to Għarb, is not only beautiful to behold but also worth viewing for its surroundings and for the remarkable items that lie within: A large room to the side of the church is literally full of memoirs and messages of gratitude left there by those who were blessed by a miracle.
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Dwejra

From Victoria, it is easy to reach all the other towns and small villages. Head West towards the setting sun to visit Għarb, the most western village of the Maltese islands. From this village, you can gain access to Dwejra and the location once known for the Azure Window – a natural rock formation which sadly collapsed into the sea in March 2017.

From the little natural harbour in Dwejra, you can easily hire a boat trip on a little traditional Maltese fishing boat called a luzzu, to go out and explore the Gozitan coast from the water. Head down to what’s known as the Inland Sea: A small pebbly bay surrounded by tall cliffs and a large cave leading out to the open sea.

If you don’t fancy a boat trip, you can walk around the area and admire Fungus Rock and its surroundings or visit the Dwejra Tower, one of a number of watchtowers built by the Knights around the coast of Malta and Gozo. From these towers, two sentinels kept watchful eyes on the horizon to alert the cities against Ottoman invasions. The tower in Dwejra is particularly impressive because it has been impeccably restored in recent years.

Time travel in Gozo

Prehistoric Gozo has some interesting offerings for the curious traveller. The Gozo Museum of Archeology is a perfect place to start. It offers a glimpse of all the important settlements that lived in Gozo from the early Neolithic up to the arrival of the Knights of St John. The museum itself resides within a beautiful 17th-century townhouse within the Citadel.

A visit to the UNESCO World Heritage Ġgantija temples is a must if you want to see how the anonymous Neolithic inhabitants of the islands planned and built shrines thousands of years before Stone Henge and the great pyramid of Giza were even conceived.

The Ġgantija temples recently gained a refurbished visitor centre, and it’s a great place to get a glimpse of the past with videos, information and guided tours around the small complex. On the same hill, the Xagħra Circle echoes the wonders of the Hypogeum in Ħal Salflieni, Malta. This was a burial site that dates back to 4,000 BC.

Other sites worth a visit include:

  • Borġ l-Imramma, in the middle of the Ta’ Ċenċ plateau, where one can see remains of a temple
  • Ras il-Wardija Nymphaeum – an artificial cave dating back to Phoenician times. It was probably a religious sanctuary.

6 “Off the beaten path” points of interest in Gozo

  • Calypso’s cave, made famous in Homer’s The Odyssey, lies on the other side of Xagħra, overlooking the largest sandy beach on the island. According to Homer’s story, Ulysses was trapped here by the nymph Calypso for seven years before resuming his journey. Update: The actual cave is no longer to the public (probably because it’s become unsafe). The view is still great, but a better alternative is Tal-Mixta Cave. It takes a little bit of navigating, but the view and location are very much worth the effort!
  • A walk along the Marsalforn promenade can take you up to Qbajjar and on into Xwejni, a remote part of the coast overlooking the open sea where it is said that on a clear summer night, one can even see the lights of cars off the coast in Sicily. What’s certain is that from here, you can catch a glimpse of the milky way in all its glory – there are only a few places on the archipelago where you can do that since light pollution is a big problem. If you’re not stargazing, the walk is nice. You’ll also find some of the island’s salt pans that make for a pretty picture towards the end of the day.
  • Tal-Merżuq Hill, or as it is most popularly known nowadays – Tas-Salvatur – offers a breathtaking view of a great part of the island. It takes some hard work to get to the top, where you’ll meet the statue of the Risen Christ that gives the hill its modern name. This statue was placed here in the 1970s at an altitude of 320 feet.
  • Wied l-Għasri is a secluded valley that winds down from Ta’ Dbieġi Hill through the village of Għasri and on to Żebbuġ. It finally meets the sea – popular with divers who like to explore the surrounding underwater caves. It is also a good place to swim or just for a quiet walk.
  • The carnival in Gozo (celebrated in February) is an annual event that year after year attracts more and more audiences. It has become a much sought-after event. Although the main activities take place in the main square of Rabat, many are those who flock to Nadur to celebrate a more spontaneous, informal carnival where everything goes, and there are no rules.
  • Near the villages of Għasri and Għarb, you can find two lighthouses (il-Fanal Ta’ Ġurdan being the more popular one), each on a separate hill, both with stunning 360-degree views over the island. il-Fanal Ta’ Ġurdan, the more popular of the two, is easily accessible through a side road right opposite Ta` Pinu church. The other is a little trickier to find, but signs in Għasri will guide you to the steep road up the hill. Drive slowly – it’s a narrow road.

Map of Gozo

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Does Gozo have sandy beaches?

The sea around the little island is as beautiful as it looks, and although there aren’t a lot of sandy beaches in Gozo, there are a few beautiful ones around. Ramla Bay beach (Ramla l-Ħamra) and San Blas Bay (on the Northern coastline) are perhaps the most accessible and the most popular among swimmers.

Marsalforn (North) also has a small sandy beach, although usually quite busy and probably not the prettiest of all. Ħondoq ir-Rummien (South East) is far more beautiful, but its sandy beach is pretty small and fills up easily.

Finally, Dahlet Qorrot Bay has a small sandy beach that is much more secluded, and only really the locals know of it. Highly recommended for an early morning swim. Peaceful, quiet, clean – a stunning little bay.

Have a look at the best beaches in Gozo for more info!

Other (not sandy) bays worth visiting

However, there are plenty of other places that, although harder to access, provide a lasting impression on visitors. Imġarr ix-Xini, for example, is a secluded pebbled beach at the end of a long gorge and is a good spot for both swimming and diving.

Ix-Xatt l-Aħmar is another undiscovered spot ideal for swimming and diving. Divers should take note – the crystal clear waters hide the wreck of an old ferryboat called ‘Ix-Xlendi’, which lies just beyond the bay.

Accommodation in Gozo

As far as accommodation is concerned, there are quite a few options to choose from. In terms of variety, Gozo offers several accommodation types that can make it hard to decide which is best:

  • You can find luxury five-star hotels like the Kempinski San Lawrenz Resort & Spa or Ta’ Ċenċ Hotel & Spa and comfortable four and three-star hotels. All offer a relaxed environment.
  • Many Maltese like to stay in farmhouses or houses of character when visiting Gozo, like Gozo Farmhouse Rentals. This type of accommodation is ideal for families or large groups, especially because many of these residences have their own swimming pool, BBQ area and private gardens.
  • A novelty concept is Boutique accommodation. These houses offer intimate and unique settings furnished in style, normally located in the heart of towns or villages.
  • Small, family-run guest houses offer a warm, friendly and highly personal welcome.
  • A delightful variety of self-catering apart-hotels offer budget accommodation.
  • Apartments rented directly from their owners are also a popular choice. Scattered throughout every town and village, these fully furnished apartments offer you independence on a budget.

Looking for Gozo hotels?

Get my best recommendations and their rates here: The 12 Best Gozo Hotels reviewed.

Getting around: Car rentals, public transport and more

Although it’s a small island, you can’t really get around Gozo on foot (unless you’re on a mission).

Gozo car hire gives you the most flexibility to get around the island, and several companies offer rental cars for pickup at Mġarr Harbour. If you hire a car in Malta, you can cross over to Gozo with it using the ferry at an additional fee. Compared to Malta, driving in Gozo is easier and much more relaxed.

There’s hardly any traffic, except perhaps in and around Victoria at times, particularly when the ferry’s just arrived, with the majority of drivers heading to the centre of the island. That kind of traffic is referred to as tal-Vapur (of the boat) by the locals.

If you crossed without a car, then you have some options as well:

  • The bus system on the island is known to be rather inefficient, and I would suggest hiring a car. There are 10 bus routes in Gozo, with buses running every hour in each direction. The 301 between Victoria (Rabat) and the ferry terminal operates every 30 minutes. These times are the same every day of the week, throughout winter and summer.
  • Taxis are an option, but they are much more expensive than driving yourself around. You can easily grab a taxi or hire a car at the ferry terminal on arrival.
  • Other alternatives, especially if you only want to spend a day on the island, are Tuk Tuk or Quad Bike tours. These can be booked from Mġarr harbour as soon as you set foot off the ferry. The drivers will surely take you to places that are not usually found on tourist maps.
  • Hop-on-hop-off buses are also very convenient if travelling to Gozo without a car and if you want to see the main attractions in a short time. The buses stop at all the major attractions. Headphones are provided to listen to descriptions of the sights in 8 different languages. You’ll find the tour bus waiting when you get off the ferry. You can get a combo pass with the hop-on-hop-off ferry online in advance.
  • If you’re in decent shape (or looking to get into shape), you could also rent a mountain bike and try one of my Gozo mountain biking routes to get a brilliant tour of parts of the island while getting a good workout too! Their site doesn’t look like much, but these guys are known to be reliable for mountain bike rentals.

Food and restaurants

There’s a lot of great food to sample all around the island. I have a separate list of recommendations of the best restaurants in Gozo, but here are a few quick suggestions to whet your appetite:

  • Tmun is an excellent choice for fine dining (specialising in some of the freshest fish available in Gozo). Located at the harbour in Mġarr, this family-run restaurant is a firm favourite on my list.
  • One80 is a great choice for fine dining near the seaside at Mġarr Harbour. Their outdoor terrace offers nice views out over the quiet marina and promenade.
  • If you love seafood, you definitely must pay a visit to Xlendi Bay. Here you’ll find an assortment of restaurants overlooking the bay, all serving great food in a fantastic setting (for example, at Ta’ Karolina Restaurant). On hot summer evenings, it’s great to eat outside and then just go for a quiet after-dinner stroll along the promenade.
  • Maxokk bakery in Nadur is another must-go-to place. Here you’ll taste a unique kind of pizza made with the same dough used to make Maltese bread. Toppings are quite unusual too. The bakery does not have tables and chairs – you just take your pizza and go eat it in a quiet place.
  • Casa Vostra in Victoria is a great little Italian restaurant in town that serves genuine Italian food in a great setting.
  • Looking for a quick lunch or casual dinner option? Head over to Cafe Jubilee at the main square in Victoria. Pick a table across the road on the square itself or grab a bite inside. There’s a mix of Mediterranean dishes as well as local food on offer, and they never disappoint.

FAQs around Gozo

No, Gozo is one of the Maltese islands and part of the Republic of Malta.

Gozo is Malta’s second-largest island and is located to the West of the main island Malta and the smaller island of Comino.

Malta is located in the Mediterranean Sea, in Europe.

The Gozo ferry terminal at Ċirkewwa in Malta is about 1 (car/taxi) to 1.5 (bus) hours away from Malta International Airport. The ferry crossing to Gozo itself takes roughly 20 minutes.

More info here: How to get from Malta Airport to Gozo

If you’re looking for a quiet holiday, yes, Gozo will be a better fit. If you’re looking to explore the country and do a lot of sightseeing, you’re probably better off in Malta and paying Gozo a visit as part of your exploration.

No. There’s only a small heliport and the nearest airport is Malta International Airport, on main island Malta. You’ll need to catch the ferry to Gozo to get to the island. Direct bus connections exist between the airport and the Gozo ferry terminal at Ċirkewwa in the North of Malta.

Being part of the Republic of Malta, the Euro is used in Gozo as well.

As the Maltese often say, Gozo is what Malta used to be: Quiet, rural and not nearly as developed as its much bigger sister island. Just because it’s quiet doesn’t mean it’s not worth considering as your main holiday destination. There’s plenty to do and see and the island has a few beautiful points of interest and sandy beaches to help recharge your batteries.

The best way to get around in Gozo is to rent a car. Public transport in Gozo isn’t super efficient, so you’re better off with a car hire in Gozo.

Using a local taxi service like Bolt or renting a scooter or mountain bike are other options. If you’re fit and up for a challenge, you could rent a (mountain-)bike as well, though beware of the heat of summer!

If you’re just visiting and looking to tour the island, here are a few suggestions to check out: Top 10 Gozo Day Trips, Tours and Excursions to Take

Gozo is about 67 km² (or 26 square miles) in size.

Do you have any questions?

Leave a comment below and I’ll get back to you as soon as possible!

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15 comments

  4. Is it possible to rent a car in Gozo or should I do that on the larger island before crossing the ferry?

    Reply

    1. Hi Mario, there are a few car rental agencies in Gozo. I’ve had a good experience with a company called Mayjo, although it’s been a while since I last dealt with them myself.

      Reply

  5. Another informative, easy to read, article. My holiday to Mata is getting ever close, we go first of June. Your site is keeping me going for now and filling me with ideas scaffolded with your brilliant facts, tips and advise. Thanks so much !

    Reply

    1. Hi Andy, I’m afraid the options are pretty limited at that time: Getting a taxi or having an uphill midnight hike are the only options I can suggest. Although it’s perfectly safe to do so I think I’d still choose the first option at that time of night.

      Reply

  8. I’m gutted about the Azure Window. We visited Gozo last year took a boat trip to see it. We are returning in June this year and planned to see it again, by land this time 🙁

    Reply

  9. It has just taken me a week to see all of Gozo. Admittedly I was on foot as well as a bicycle but did use the bus on occasions. It is just so relaxing, the scenery fantastic with flowers everywhere at this time of year and the people extremely friendly.

    Reply

    1. Very familiar comments Nathan, it certainly is a great place to spend time if you want to escape a busy routine.

      Reply

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